I’m a little bit slow in posting again, but nothing compared to my last blog hiatus. As promised, this will cover our recent vacation to Guam in all its glorious detail.
We flew in on Sunday afternoon following a relatively easy travel day with Sara. There was a little bit of whining and crying at times, but compared to the pain she put me through on the 11 hour flight to California last December, it was a peaceful 3 and a half hours (or 7 with travel times to and from the airport included).
As we took a taxi to the hotel, we passed by some of the other on-line options I had declined, like the Ramada, which ended up being much farther away from the beach than they appeared to be on the map. I was grateful we had paid a little extra for the Hilton as I watched some Japanese tourists in beach garb hoofing it towards the coast. And then we got to the crest of the hill overlooking the bay. Wow. As our taxi descended into the HIlton parking lot I knew that we were going to have an incredible stay. The Tumon Bay area is a truly magnificent place for a lot of hotels to set up shop. It is large in breadth and shallow in depth and surrounded by beautiful white sand beaches with high cliffs flanking its northern end. The reef sets up a natural barrier from the deep ocean a good quarter mile off the coast line, leaving a gigantic area available to explore with a snorkel. My top priority became locating one of these and getting out into the crystal clear azure waters.
I guess I’ll skip talking about the hotel check-in process and just let you know that our room overlooked this gorgeous view. We decided that our top priority should be securing the essentials that we would need for the remainder of our week. Important things like snorkels and cereal (not just for me – Sara has become quite the fan as well; she is particularly fond of Raisin Bran, but for some strange reason doesn’t like Cheerios… hmmm…).
Another reason to stay in one of the bay-side hotels can be found in the convenience of traveling around to other tourist attractions. Guam has a cute little touristy system of red busses that circle endlessly in a variety of patterns that connect all the main hotels with the big shopping areas. It costs 3 dollars to ride once, but you can get a 5 day pass for 20. What a deal! We got the 5 day passes and proceeded to take about 20 rides over the duration of our stay. The first stop was an outlet center. I noticed on the ride there that the infrastructure in Guam is not too great beyond the central hotel/tourist strip. I wasn’t too surprised after a previous warning from my friend and other experiences with islands (sorry Hawaii, even you get thrown under the bus as having a fair share of run-down project areas). The outlet center had similarly dilapidated surroundings, but offered some good deals, including a nice little grocery store called California Mart and plenty of good old American fast/junk food eateries. Ruby Tuesday’s marked our first dinner spot, followed in future days by American standbys like TGiF’s, California Pizza Kitchen, Chili’s, Cold Stone, Subway, even a Taco Bell Cheesy Beefy Crunchy Burrito and my first ever Sbarro’s got in on the American food action. The biggest coup of the trip came on a visit to Payless supermarket towards the end of our stay where I finally found the one thing I was really hoping to come across while I was there, Mint Dark Chocolate M&Ms. I bought 10 packs to bring back to Japan. A lady at the store saw my purchase and decided to go grab a pack for herself to see what the excitement was all about. To those of you who are reading this and wondering why I would eat all of this crap instead of sampling the local dishes, I should emphasize that there doesn’t really seem to be much in the way of ‘Guamanian cuisine’ so we certainly weren’t missing out on much by enjoying the US food that we don’t have access to here in Japan.
Our second stop on our first night in Guam was to a mecca of shopping… K-Mart. I needed a snorkel badly, and this seemed to be the most likely place to find a practical set. Sure enough, for only 9 dollars I found a mask/snorkel set that rivaled a much more professional version that I used to own from U.S. Divers. It saw a lot of use over the next few days. We also grabbed Sara some nice little beach toys, and started a little bit of our souvenir grabbing, not to mention some more essentials like sunscreen, toothpaste, and the like.
OK… I may be getting a little too detailed… I’ll up the pace a bit here or it’s going to take way too long to write everything. It basically comes down to shopping, swimming, snorkeling, and a day trip around the rest of the island.
I’ll skip the shopping part because it isn’t that interesting… just some new clothes and food stuffs we can’t normally find. The swimming and snorkeling would seem to go together, but I have separated them because they represent different family members.
Sara has never really been in a body of water larger than my bathtub in California. So the hotel pool and Tumon Bay were completely overwhelming for her. We got her a little fish swim ring and some Cars floaties and took her into the pool. She utterly refused to wear the arm floaties, but after we forced her into the swim ring and started dragging/chasing her around the pool her tears turned into laughs and she began to adjust to the idea of swimming for fun, I think. She eventually fell asleep in the swim ring, which seems to be a bit of a defense mechanism for her when she finds herself in an uncomfortable situation… just go to sleep and hope to wake up in better surroundings. She did the same thing a lot in California when subjected to meeting new people. So I can’t really be sure that she actually enjoyed the swim, but at least she had the opportunity to do it, and the experience was no doubt beneficial on some level. After a couple times in the pool, Yumi and I decided to see if she could handle the ocean, too. Unfortunately the day we went out was comparatively rough (there was even the occasional whitecap out on the bay, a typically flat and tranquil expanse of water after the line of breakers), so she got jostled up and down pretty significantly, occasionally even getting a little splash of salt water on her face, prompting funny moments of licking her lips in surprise at the saltiness of the water.
The reason that Yumi and I had attempted this was in an attempt to get to share a little bit of the snorkeling experience together. Prior to that it had consisted of me snorkeling while she watched Sara, then coming in and pointing out some good areas to go see while I took my turn playing with Sara on the beach. Sara enjoyed the sand and shells quite a bit, but was still not as taken by it as I expected based off the hours she can spend playing in a sandbox (or even just picking up rocks) in Japan.
The snorkeling in Guam may be the best I have experienced. It is more easily accessible than Papua New Guinea was (literally walk downstairs from the hotel pool into a whole new world), clearer than Australia, and had a bigger variety of corals and fish than Hawaii (but no turtles -*sigh*-). I was amazed at the sheer number of fish – the second you put your face under the water there were at least 5 different kinds of gorgeous tropical fish in sight. I saw pretty much every type of tropical fish I can think of except for a clownfish, including some crazy long-armed bright blue starfish and a flounder that I had initially thought was a fish skeleton or fossil on the sea floor. Of course there were a lot of crazy types of things that I had seen before that I didn’t get to see this time (turtles, rays, moray eels, lionfish, sea snakes), but the huge amount of things that WERE available to view made for a breathtaking experience. And the fact that it was literally right there and all within a depth of 3 meters (and usually less) makes Tumon Bay a big old recommendation.
It is interesting how Guam is situated so that all the tourist activity is pretty much confined to the Tumon area, It is a small island, so it wouldn’t be too surprising to me if things were to spread out a little more, but instead pretty much all of the main spots to hit are confined to an incredibly small strip. Nonetheless, I was intent on getting out to explore the rest of the island. In particular, the natural beauty of the southern part of the island was a big draw for me. Of course there is a big military presence in the north (and elsewhere as well) which didn’t really interest us to check out, but we wanted to see some of the other sites that were a bit more off the beaten track, but still popular and accessible enough to take a 20-month old to. The hope was to find chances to snorkel in other areas, but that never panned out as we were warned off by ‘Pirate Jeff’ when we stopped at his shack for a burger lunch due to the “Horrible weather” the island was having when we were there (it took me a second to realize he wasn’t being sarcastic… The wind was a lot stronger than normal, I guess), and the risk that a strong bit of current could literally rip you out to sea, never to be seen again.
So we settled for driving around and visiting pretty much everything else that the tourist guide has to offer. The first stop was Two Lovers Point, an incredible viewpoint from the cliffs on the north part of Tumon Bay where a Romeo and Juliet type story had unfolded as two young star-crossed lovers from feuding tribes had tied their hair together before jumping into the water below so that their bodies would be forever connected even in death. It was a great way to start the day, and despite a heavy rain as we approached, the sky opened up to let the sun through just as we pulled up. We were the first tourists to show up, and the locals in the parking lot were super nice, and offered some island hospitality.
After snapping a couple pictures there, we embarked on the longest stretch of our drive, made longer by my inability to navigate us properly through the city to the lone country highway that circles the southern part of the island (I can blame a poor map, but it also came down to my mistaking West and East… whoops). After a while and a lot of roads undergoing construction, we arrived at Hamamoto Tropical Fruit Farm, a huge plantation full of (as the name would suggest) pretty much every kind of tropical fruit you can think of. It features a tram tour and a buffet, both of which we skipped out on. No one was at the visitor center when we got there, so we just sort of meandered around for a while before deciding that it was a bit too vast for us to really get a grip on by ourselves. When we returned to the front desk we were greeted by a kindly Japanese lady who spoke with Yumi and admired Sara for a few minutes. We were invited to the buffet, but since it wasn’t ready at that point and we had a lot to see and an already planned lunch spot coming up soon at Pirate Jeff’s, we just hit the road again.
From here on the driving was direct and easy, just circling around the southern half of Guam. After our lunch stop, we visited what must be the largest tourist attraction off the strip aside from maybe a resort island called Coco’s (we weren’t able to get there on this trip… it’s a full day adventure boat ride to a teeny nearby island… Have to save something for next time, after all!). Anyway, this big stop was a sort of ‘National Park’ type thing. It is called Talofolo Falls Natural Preserve (or something like that) and features a fun little sky carriage ride to some waterfalls that end up near Yokoi Cave. I thought it would be fun to go caving, but this isn’t anything more than a hole carved into the ground by an overly determined Japanese soldier who evaded capture for 30 years or so after World War II had ended. Most of his platoon had committed seppuku after their defeat, but he and 2 others stayed alive and in hiding for years, living off of the land. His compatriots died off (or were captured, I don’t remember) after a shorter stint (maybe 18 year or so); but he just kept on keeping on until some locals found him in his old age. The park is run by Japanese, I believe, because most of the signage is primarily in Japanese, and the bad English translations call the guy a “hero”. Anyway, it was an interesting stop, and I was able to get a mask to add to my ever growing collection. There was also an X-rated attraction called “Loveland” attached to it… I won’t throw pics up here, but let me know if you want to see what that craziness was all about and I can forward some strange statue pictures to you!
At this point, I realized that despite Guam being a small island without much to do, we still were unlikely to see everything on our list. The only big thing that ended up getting cut besides Coco’s was a jungle boat ride. No biggie, it was sort of expensive, and we were way too late for it. The rest of the afternoon consisted of minor viewpoints. A couple of them were certainly breathtaking, but others seemed to have been put on the guidebook list of things to do just because there is not really a whole lot going on anywhere aside from beautiful, green rolling hillsides running up to white sand beaches. We finished the day at the capitol city’s cathedral and ruins of the old Spanish capitol building. There was also a park with a few standing stone pillars that were examples of a native ‘hut’ that had been reconstructed from ancient ruins that were destroyed in the war at some point.
At this point the day was almost over, so we went out to dinner and got back to the hotel. I got to enjoy some primary results on CNN and Fox “News” and check out sports highlights on ESPN, including detailed discussion of what the talking heads felt the Rams might be able to get for the second pick in this year’s draft. (UPDATE: Big time haul of picks from the Redskins… between that and Fisher’s activity in Free Agency, I expect the Rams to be an instant contender next year, even if Peyton ends up signing with the 49ers). But I digress…
There isn’t a lot more to talk about of interest, just some more shopping, snorkeling, and relaxing. I’m going to go ahead and stop here, find a few good pix and start into my next blog entry that I have been itching to talk to someone about over the past few days… more to come soon.